CKRT Day 05 - Ganapatipule to Vijaydurga

Continued from: CKRT Day 04 - Guhagar to Ganapatipule

Route: Ganapatipule -> Pracheen Konkan -> Ratnagiri -> Pawas -> Purnagad -> Jaitapur -> Padel -> Vijaydurga -> Devgad

Today was the day when the possibility of being forced to tent in the middle of nowhere, was looming large on us. Given the amount of locations to visit, the distance to travel, lack of clarity about connections between few places enroute, a plan B of tenting and camping, was prepared for this day.

गणपतीपुळ्याचं मंदिर (Ganapatipule Temple)

Early in the morning, we had been to the Temple campus and the adjoining beach. It pained to see its current status. Quite a few years back (back in 2003/04 if I remember correctly), when we were in T.E., the temple had only the hill in the rear and the sea in the front. It was a serene and beautiful sight. Now the temple is mobbed by many ugly buildings and fences. It has lost its charm. Simple was immensely beautiful. This is what happens when you have a large population which doesn't mind mobbing and littering beautiful places in the name of god.


प्राचीन कोकण (Pracheen Konkan)

We checked out from the room, and went to Pracheen Konkan. The project is conceptualized by a group of college going public. It depicts how Konkan was, back in the time of ancient civilization. The social structure, the geology, the people, their fashion, animals, birds, fishes, reptiles, their varieties etc. It's an informative project, definitely worth a visit. Only their guides need to let go of that disinterested, monotonous, news-anchor like accent, and speak with a normal tone.

Pracheen Konkan Guide Map

Small Scale Model of Jaigad

White Hibiscus

Impressive Arrangement

Black Headed Golden Oriole

पावस (Pawas)

Soon after Pracheen Konkan, we took our breakfast and started towards Ratnagiri. The route to some extent is a coastal sea-side drive, and views of the rocky coast, crystal clear white-sand beaches, deep blue sea and an occassional fishing trawler take one's breath away.

Our next stop was the स्वामी स्वरुपानंद आश्रम (Swami-Swaroopanand Ashram) at Pawas. I did a tankful at a petrol bunk near Ratnagiri, just in case petrol became scarce later on.

The Swaroopanand Ashram was a very silent and serene place. The atmosphere was indeed strangely different and calming. It was my first time there (or maybe second, I have a very hazy memory of Pawas from my early childhood). The आरती (aarati) there, was a different experience, though I haven't remained the आस्तिक (believer) of olden times anymore. कर्मकांडावर माझा बिलकुल विश्वास नाही. पण माणसाच्या जीवनात देव असण्यानं जर माणसं सरळमार्गी आणि इतरांचं चांगलं चिंतणारी होत असतील तर माणसाच्या जीवनात देव जरुर असावा. असो.

While looking around during the aarati, I observed quite a lot of different profiles of people. Some of them looked almost out of place. A lot of old people - quite expected. But quite a few young women, some young guys (like us) in half pants and commando T-shirts. The most striking sight was a young guy with Devanand-style long hair, half-moon glasses, a goatee, white(!) 3/4th and a black T-shirt with a red star and Che Guevara imprint(!) on it. Talk about being out of place!

We had our lunch at the Ashram itself, and after gulping down a few hefty doses of कैरीचं पन्हं, we set out towards पूर्णगड (Purnagad).


पूर्णगड (Purnagad)

It was comparatively closeby from the Ashram. Quite a small fort - or rather an observation point. The fortifications are intact, but that's about it. Nothing much there. Except - except for the untouched, directly accessible, beautiful beach in its rear.
It was a striking sight. A route from the rear entry/exit door of the fort, was dropping straight onto the pristine beach. It was an ideal site for an overnight camping. Sitting there in the shade of big trees, and watching the tides wash the beach, is a soothing experience.


Finding विजयदुर्ग (Vijaydurga)

Next destination was the विजयदुर्ग (Vijaydurga). Now this was the start of the uncertain part. The sources that I had referred to, suggested that there will be ferries to Vijaydurga from Madban beach (माडबन किनारा). Otherwise, the land-route was quite distant.

To top that, the map I had, suggested no bridge going from Purnagad to Jaitapur, over the Jaiapur creek. No mention of ferry service from Madban to Vijaydurga either.

We started towards Jaitapur and decided to alter the plan on the go as per the circumstances. It was already 2-3pm in the afternoon and we still hadn't a trace of Vijaydurga. Checking out Vijaydurga was going to take couple of hours and thence we were to move to Devgad in search of accommodation. It looked like a doomed plan already. Unless we rushed ...

I stuffed my hat back in the rucksack, and got the helmet out. It was very windy and the hat wouldnt have allowed me to pickup speed without distractions. Helmet would allow me to let lose on the bike and make the best effort to attain these tight timelines.

Our stars were shining bright. After rushing through the plains for sometime, we came across a brand new bridge that would take us acoss the Jaitapur creek, and would grant us direct access to the Madban beach. The bridge was commissioned only recently.

Finding Madban beach, turned out to be a very confusing affaire due to misleading and mis-reading boards. And then after finally finding it, we learned that ferries dont ply between Madban and Vijaydurga anymore since a new bridge has been commissioned over the Vaghotane creek (वाघोटणे खाडी) - the very creek that seperates Vijaydurga from Madban beach. Viola! So it was all road route now.

It was 40kms from Madban though, and the evening was approaching very quickly. I started feeding in even more throttle. The road, again thanks to our lucky star, was impeccable - smooth, wide, desserted, recently laid, tar surface - also known as: a biker's paradise.

By 5pm, we were in Vijaydurga. Parked the bike, had a few doses of Karvanda juice (करवंद सरबत), and started a guided tour of Vijaydurga, along with one other group.

विजयदुर्ग (Vijaydurga)

The guide we met, and had the pleasure of learning from, at Vijaydurga, was, without a single doubt in my mind, the best guide I had ever met. He was highly knowledgible, self learning, a seemingly history-buff himself and was well researched with his knowledge nuggets. The minute details that he explained of small things, which usually slip from our attention, were astounding. Those details not only introduced us to the foresight of Shivaji Maharaj and the people he chose, but also made us appreciate how well researched this guy was. Undoubtedly one of the best guided-tours I ever had a pleasure of attending.

At the end, we decided to double the amount we were to pay to the guide. It was just a token of gratitude for doing such a great job of making historical nugggests interesting for people like us. Guides like him need to stay in that profession so that people get to learn the history from a knowledgible person.

Reclaimation on the right

Arms Depot (दारुगोळा कोठार) iirc

Now a bit about Vijaydurga. The fort was surrounded by water from all sides. But recently one side has been reclaimed and the fort is now connected to the land. The reclaimation also hosts MTDC resort, at a vantage point, like all MTDC resorts. The fort overlooks the Vaghotane creek, which Shivaji maharaj wanted to keep under control so that nuisance from the English and Portugese navies would be kept at bay. The creek cuts very deep in the land, and it posed a danger to the स्वराज्य (the self-ruled empire) from the foreign navies. That's why this old fort, which was originally built by King Bhoj (भोज राजा), was enlarged and strengthened. The old fortification is still standing inside Vijaydurga, though in a dilapidated condition.
We came to know various steathy ways in and out of the fort. Attention to details in minutest of defenses, used to stop the enemy if an attack were to be carried out, was plain amazing. We couldn't help but appreciate the strategic thinking during that period of time.

We were told about an underwater wall that Shivaji maharaj got built and kept under wraps all the time. Nobody knew about the wall until recent time. It's said that at least 2 British ships were wrecked by that wall. The interesting part was how the hulls of British/western ships were built in V-shape, while those of Indian ships were built in a U-shape. This U-shaping of the hull enabled Indian ships to pass over that underwater wall safely, while it broke the V-hulled western ships into pieces. That - Indian shipbuilding was indigeneous and not derived from western technology - came as a pleasant surprise - a breath of fresh air, if you will, in a world where all we do is mimic the westerners. And that this very difference was noticed and exploited in that era, was a cherry on the top - leaving us wondering where all that shrewdness has gone since.


देवगड (Devgad)

By the time Vijaydurga fort tour ended, it was 6:45pm and the sun had just set. It was slowly getting dark around. I was not sure whether we will get to Devgad before nightfall. Devgad was still 20-25kms from there and I wanted to avoid driving in the night due to the inconsiderate manner in which people drive - headlights set to upper beam - blinding the incoming drivers.

I again let the bike lose on the silky smooth road. But then things don't always go your way. However hard I tried, it was stark dark by the time we reached Devgad, and I had hurled quite a few choice words towards the high-beamers.

Thankfully we didn't have to struggle much for the room. And what a room we got for mere 500 bucks a night at the 11th hour! Posh interiors, LCD TV, double bed, air cooler, huge balcony, utter clean and posh bathroom with a napkin, towel and toiletries placed where they should be ... boy! Compared to the kind of rooms we have had so far, for a similar cost, it was a gem! A jackpot! It was so unbelievable that we went to the extent of confirming with the reception that it was not 500 bucks per head, but 500 all inclusive. :)

It was a hectic hectic day with some serious driving and running around done throughout. The intermixture of exertion of the day, satisfaction at the end that we didnt have to resort to plan-B, and a delightful room, was too much to handle, and I didn't realise when I fell asleep after we came back from the dinner.


Next: CKRT Day 06 - Devgad to Malvan (Tarkarli)